[Photo: Robin Bellinger]
In the nine years I lived in New York, I never ate at Shopsin’s. I was busy, sure, but let’s be honest: I was also chicken. What if I did something that pissed him off? (Owner Kenny Shopsin has a legendary temper, and isn’t afraid to show it.)
Before we left the city, on our last trip downtown, I dragged Andrew into the Essex Street Market and pointed out the red suspenders behind the stove. But we were hauling the baby around with us and worried that she might start screaming if we sat down, so instead we comforted ourselves with the idea that we could cook from Shopsin’s book.
This unusual brunch was comforting indeed–what’s not to like about eggs with garlic bread? Lucinda Scala Quinn’s baked Italian fries would be a fitting, if indulgent side dish; if that’s too complicated or rich for you, plain roasted potatoes with a pinch of chopped rosemary or dried oregano would also work.